Techniques · Finish
Your first coat of primer
Why priming matters, rattle can versus brush-on, and how to lay down thin, even coats before you reach for colour.
Why prime at all
Primer gives paint a single, even surface to key to, instead of a mix of bare plastic, resin, metal and dried glue, each of which takes paint differently.
It also shows up problems while they are still easy to fix: sanding marks, scratches and gaps all stand out under a flat coat of primer in a way they do not under bare plastic.
Rattle can or brush-on
A rattle can, an aerosol primer, covers a whole model quickly and evenly, and is the easier starting point for a first kit or miniature.
Brush-on primer is slower and can leave brush marks if applied too thickly, but it works indoors without a spray booth or outdoor space, and it is easier to prime just one area without covering the rest of the model.
Thin coats and working distance
Build primer up in several thin passes rather than one heavy coat. A heavy coat is the single most common cause of filled-in detail and pooling in corners.
With a rattle can, keep the nozzle moving and hold it roughly 20 to 30 cm from the model. Stopping in one spot, or holding it too close, is what causes pooling and runs.
Dry time
Drying time varies by brand, temperature and humidity, so follow the can for both touch-dry and fully cured times rather than a fixed rule.
Handle the model as little as possible until it is fully cured, not just touch-dry: primer that feels dry on the surface can still be soft underneath.