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Kits and minis

Read the instructions all the way through before cutting anything, including the parts map and any lettered sprue diagrams.

Dry-fit the main sub-assemblies, such as a hull, fuselage or torso and limbs, without glue, so you catch a part that does not seat before it is permanent.

Decide your paint scheme and markings before you start. Some panel lines and masking choices are easier to plan for before assembly than after.

Bench tip. Lay sprues out on the table in the order the instructions use them; it is far faster than hunting through a bag of loose sprues step by step.

Brick builds

Open bags in the order printed on them, usually numbered 1, 2, 3 and so on, not all at once, so parts stay matched to the step that needs them.

Check the inventory against the instructions if the set is secondhand, so you discover a missing part before you are three steps in, not at the end.

Sort by colour and size into trays before starting a big set. Searching a loose pile costs more time than sorting it upfront.

Bench tip. A shallow tray with low walls makes finding a specific 1x1 or 1x2 plate far quicker than a deep tub.

Technique guides

28mm vs 32mm miniatures: what the numbers mean

Miniature scales are quoted as a height in millimetres, not a ratio. Here is what 28mm and 32mm mean, roughly how they convert, and why figures labelled the same can look different sizes.

Your first painted miniature

A beginner path for building and painting a first miniature, from picking a starter box to a based figure, using the site's stage guides.

Your first plastic kit, from box to built

A beginner path through a first plastic kit: choosing one, the few tools you need, and what to do at each of the build stages, with links to the detailed guides.

1:72 vs 1:48 vs 1:35: model kit scales explained

What the numbers on a kit box mean, how to work out how big the finished model will be, and which subjects usually come in which scale.

Sources

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